Desi Rancheva and Merlenne – a passionate fashion story

We’ve been planning the interview with Desi since autumn. Our schedules kept missing each other—just like we all love to use as an excuse. Mine has been packed with fashion week coverage and news about departing designers. Hers—with the challenges of building a successful fashion brand within that same eclectic fashion reality.

Having known her for years as a co-founder of Fashion Inside, I’m well aware of the scope of her creative vision and business instinct.
But now, watching her in her solo fashion venture – Merlenne – it feels like she’s more determined than ever.

In her words, you can hear the ambition, the love, the optimism, the sweet fatigue…
You’ll understand more for yourself – in the lines that follow.

Read here the interview:

— We know that Merlenne is a project that’s been in the making for years. You start, pause, then come back again – life often unfolds that way.
What made you run the full course this time?

— A chance encounter… or perhaps not so chance at all, because I don’t believe in coincidences.
For years, I tried to launch Merlenne. The idea for the brand I always dreamed of creating took clear shape in 2016. Since then, I’ve inevitably faced the challenges in the industry — they’re no secret to anyone.

I knew it would be hard in the beginning, because all the work falls on one person’s shoulders. But in reality, a project like this, handled by just one person, turned out to be an impossible task. Things truly started moving for Merlenne when I met our production director, Tanya Kotseva. That meeting greatly eased my workload and gave the brand real momentum on a larger scale in 2023.

— A fashion brand in Bulgaria – it’s a well-known fact that this is no easy task.
If you had to choose the three most difficult moments in building Merlenne, what would they be?

— The moment I was searching for the right people to work with. The sector has suffered a lot in recent years. Qualified professionals in Bulgaria are becoming increasingly scarce, creating a vicious cycle where the situation only worsens. Finding people who speak the same language as you – those who would choose to work on limited series of exclusive, high-quality pieces instead of chasing volume – that’s definitely not an easy task.

Dedicating what’s needed to your project while it’s still only an investment of time and effort is another difficult challenge. For a long time, you have to juggle it alongside everything else you’re doing.

Last but not least, going through all of this, it’s a real challenge to keep believing in your high standards and values. There are discouraging situations and moments when you’re truly tempted to change the idea – just because you can’t find another solution.

—  And what have been the best moments, now when Merlenne is already a reality?

—  I live in the world I want. This is my world, and it’s always been that way – even when I didn’t believe I could make it happen. Every effort is worth it, because I truly love what we do – from choosing fabrics and planning the new season, to hearing from our happy clients and their stories about our clothes. These are truly special, irreplaceable moments.

—  Do you manage to see how the brand’s values reflect on your clients? What has the initial feedback been like?

—  I’m happy to see people’s faces when they put on one of our pieces. Yes, those are the brand’s values – but they’re also the values of our clients. There’s consistent interest and a very high appreciation for our work. That’s a huge reward and motivation to keep getting better.

Our personal meetings with clients in our showroom are incredibly energizing – they spark new ideas and lead to better solutions. Anyone can book a time and come visit at their convenience.

— Fashion is an incredible creative process – but also a business. At Fashion Inside, we’ve always been excited about both sides of the industry.
Can you share which pieces have become Merlenne’s bestsellers?

— Of course! Our best-selling coats have been the alpaca models – we offered them in three colors during the past winter season. Among the shirts, our airy design featuring an original monogram print of the brand stood out, available in several colors.
Also, the leather belts with a soft cashmere finish on the inside and a gold monogram buckle have been a favorite.
These were the most loved and purchased pieces and accessories from the last season.

— You’ve been telling fashion stories for years – but what’s the biggest difference between telling them with words and telling them through design? Is it harder or easier to convey the messages you want the world to hear?

— It’s not easier – but the world somehow feels more beautiful when I see the finished piece we started from scratch. I’m someone who grew up with the ideals of fashion, and for me, it’s a way to express ourselves – our creativity, our beauty, and our individuality. That’s why we’re committed to creating sustainable fashion – pieces you can wear for more than just one season, that feel comfortable, and that serve you in the best possible way, because they’re made with care and attention to the highest quality. I love feedback. I put a strong emphasis on listening to and understanding the people who choose Merlenne.

—  When global designers are asked which collection is their favorite, the usual answer is “the next one.” Will you give us a hint about what you’re working on now? I think a little inside scoop is absolutely essential.

—  Linen, silk, and chiffon. We’re staying true to the fabrics that caress the body and create comfort. Spring is shaped in gabardine and denim, and just before summer, we’ll unveil linen pieces with exceptional lines and modern accents.
The Resort collection features silk, embroidered cotton, linen, and chiffon. It’s going to be a beautiful summer!

Text: Nasko Fotev

Photos: Elena Nenkova